Joe Widmer is a Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker, one of Wisconsin's elite craftsmen who has completed a rigorous European-style program that certifies him as a "master." He's earned the title for three varieties—the three for which Widmer Cheese Cellars is known—Brick, Cheddar and Colby.

How did you get interested in cheesemaking?

I was immersed in cheesemaking! My family has been making cheese in Theresa since my grandfather John Widmer arrived from Switzerland more than 80 years ago. Our place is a classic Wisconsin cheese plant. My father and I both grew up in the rooms above the plant and raised our children there, as well. From the time I was 6 or 7 years old, I remember helping out in the plant. I'd come down in the morning and do my job before going to school.

So for you, the career was just "automatic"?

Not quite! I was a bit of a renegade in my earlier years and left the family business after high school. I was really into music—rock, blues and later on folk rock–and played in a band. I loved it, but after a couple of years I learned how hard it is to make a go of it. I worked on the railroad for a while, and finally decided it was time to return to cheesemaking. I came back, got a degree in food science, and got serious about making great cheese.

Widmer's Cheese Cellars is synonymous with outstanding Wisconsin Brick cheese. What's your secret?

Brick, particularly the surface-ripened, foil-wrapped and aged version, has always been our calling card. We still follow the authentic procedures established by my grandfather. Brick is a Wisconsin Original and is one of the finest cheeses we make. It's more flavorful and complex than the mass-produced Brick cheese that many consumers are familiar with. Because it's a washed-rind cheese that's aged longer, it develops robust flavors. We're seeing demand for it increasing as consumers seek out more distinctive artisanal cheeses.

All of this—and maybe it has something to do with our heritage—we still use the same bricks my grandfather used to press the whey from the cheese. And we have no plans to change. I'm passionate about tradition.

You're also passionate about another Wisconsin original —Colby—arent't you?

Absolutely. Colby once had a deserved reputation as another Wisconsin Original specialty cheese, but in recent times, it's lost the "specialty" distinction. The USDA changed the standards for Colby in the 1990's—it's a bit complicated, but the result is that Colby is generally a moister cheese now. It's lost some of its lacy, open texture due to the new standards, and many cheesemakers are largely ignoring the history and traditions of making fine authentic Colby.

And, what about your Cheddars?

We've made Cheddar a long time, but in recent years we've doing a lot more aging of Cheddars to satisfy the desire for more distinctive, artisan style cheeses. As Cheddars age, they develop a much more complex flavor. We now age Cheddars to several different ages– from 2- to 6-years-old. Our 6-year-old Cheddar took first place in the Cheddar category at the American Cheese Society competition last year. We take a lot of pride in that accomplishment.

You have earned the Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker distinction for Brick, Colby and Cheddar. Why is this important to you?

Even though we're sticklers about tradition here at Widmer's, you can never stop trying to better yourself and improve your skills. The Master Cheesemaker program helped me to do that and makes me even more proud of being a cheesemaker here in Wisconsin. It is an extensive education process, and it's also tremendous for the marketability and quality assurance of the cheese we make. I can use the Master's Mark—a symbol that carries a lot of clout and assures customers cheese is of the highest quality.

Do you have any advice for young cheesemakers?

Listen to my grandfather's golden rule: take no shortcuts and accept nothing less than excellence.

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